Levi's · 517 · fall 1969–present
Levi's launched the 517 in fall 1969 alongside the 646 bell bottom, as part of its new orange tab line for fashion fits. That fall's catalog sold the STA-PREST Saddleman 517 as full from the knee for the boot wearer, and that's still the cut. It's fitted through the thigh and opens gently from the knee, with far less flare than a 646. The idea came from the street. Hippies were splitting the side seams of their jeans and sewing in panels to fit boots. By the mid-1970s the 517 was made in both red tab and orange tab versions on different production lines, and Japanese collectors say the red tab pairs share their basic details with the 501. Levi's made it in corduroy too. A US-made pair from the 1970s or 80s in an original length that fits you is the one to buy.
Date it from the photos
Reissues and repros
Levi's revived the orange tab in 2017, including a cropped women's 517, so check the care tags and country of origin on any orange tab pair sold as vintage. Japanese maker ONI makes a 517XX bootcut in heavy selvedge denim.
If you’ll wear it
A US-made red or orange tab 517 from the 1980s gives you the cut over boots without hunting for a 1970s pair.
If you’ll collect it
Big E and early 1970s orange tab pairs with single-stitched pockets are the ones to look for.
Measure the leg opening as well as the waist, inseam and front rise, because the opening is what separates a 517 from a 646 bell bottom. Ask for the waist flat and doubled rather than trusting the tag on a washed pair. Inseam matters more than usual, since a bootcut only looks right at the length that lets it break over a boot.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
Measurements first, then the details
Bootcuts drag, so the back of the hems is often frayed or worn through. Crotch and knee wear are the other usual repairs, and both are fine on a pair you'll wear.
Buying guide
For a 517 to wear, we'd take the 90s orange tab with a measured 32x31 in the title, at $72 delivered. There are at least 207 for sale, all from US sellers in our sample, and most ask $55–95 delivered, with Y2K pairs at the low end and USA-made orange tabs from the 70s to 90s across the band. Ask for the leg opening measured flat at the hem along with the waist, the rise and an inseam on the original hem, since a much wider opening suggests a 646 sold as a 517 and a bootcut needs its length to sit over a boot. Check the patch and inside tags for 517 and MADE IN U.S.A., because Levi's revived the orange tab in 2017. eBay's search cards don't show seller feedback for these, so check it on the item page, and skip the $180 orange tab 34x32, well over twice the band median.
$40.85est. delivered
The lowest delivered 517 here, titled 90s and made in USA, and the seller gives a fit of 32x29 against a 33x30 tag. It's listed as distressed, so check the hem backs and crotch in the photos.
Vintage Levis 517 Boot Cut Jeans Mens 33x30 (Fits 32x29) Distressed 90s USA
$72.08est. delivered
A 90s orange tab with a measured 32x31 in the title, near the middle of the band. Ask for the leg opening laid flat and a photo of the inside tag for MADE IN U.S.A.
VTG 90s Levi’s 517 Orange Tab Bootcut Jeans Faded 32x31 (measured)
$66.02est. delivered
An 80s orange tab titled made in USA, in a common 32x31 near the band median. A US-made 80s pair is the easy way into the cut, so just get the waist measured flat and the leg opening.
Vintage 80s Levi's 517 Men's Orange Tab Bootcut Blue Jeans 32x31 Made In USA
$115.85est. delivered
Titled February 1977 with a 517 0217 lot, a Talon 42 zip and a 2 on the button, more period detail than any other listing here. It's distressed and W31 only, so ask for the inseam and the inside of a back pocket hem, where single-needle stitching fits the 1970s.
Vtg Feb 1977 Levis 517 0217 Jeans W31 Made in USA Talon 42 Button 2 Distressed
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used$40.85est. delivered
$29.99 + $10.86 shipping
Buy It Now$29.99
Good buy
Titled 90s, made in USA, fits 32x29 (tag 33x30). Distressed.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$72.08est. delivered
$64.99 + $7.09 shipping
Buy It Now$64.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
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Good buy
Titled 90s orange tab, measured 32x31.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$66.02est. delivered
$59.99 + $6.03 shipping
Buy It Now$59.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled 80s orange tab, made in USA, 32x31.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$115.85est. delivered
$100.00 + $15.85 shipping
Buy It Now$100.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
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Good buy
Titled Feb 1977, Talon 42, button 2, distressed. W31.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$49.29est. delivered
$38.14 + $11.15 shipping
Buy It Now$38.14
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Y2K dark wash, 31x32. A later pair, priced like one.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$65.09est. delivered
$58.00 + $7.09 shipping
Buy It Now$58.00
Our take
Measures 28x31 per the title. No era claim.
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Used$69.09est. delivered
$62.00 + $7.09 shipping
Buy It Now$62.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Dark wash, made in USA, 36x34.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$179.89est. delivered
$173.99 + $5.90 shipping
Buy It Now$173.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Priced high
Titled orange tab, made in USA, 34x32. Well over twice the band median.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Prices change daily. The live eBay search shows everything listed now, including anything new since Oct 11, 2026.
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