Levi's · 646 · from fall 1969
Levi's introduced the 646 in fall 1969 as hippies were splitting the seams of their jeans and sewing in panels to widen the legs. It launched in the experimental orange tab line alongside the 517 bootcut, kept apart from red tab classics like the 501 and 505. The first ones were called Nuvo Flares and were made from a poly-cotton blend. Haight-Ashbury boutique owner Peggy Caserta said she persuaded Levi's to make bell bottoms, though the company historian couldn't confirm it. The cut is tight through the thigh, pinched at the knee and belled to the hem, wider than a 517 and narrower than the 684 Big Bell sold beside it. Sellers mix those up all the time. Orange tab pairs from the 1970s are the ones collectors want. Get the leg opening and lot number before you trust a listing title.
Date it from the photos
Reissues and repros
Levi's revived the orange tab in 2017 with modern fits and stretch fabrics, so check the care tags and country of origin on any orange tab flare sold as vintage.
If you’ll wear it
A 1970s or 80s orange tab 646 in an unaltered length is the real thing for 70s styling.
If you’ll collect it
Big E orange tab pairs and early poly-cotton Nuvo Flares are the first-years pieces.
Bell bottoms are tight through the thigh, so measure the thigh as well as the waist, front rise, inseam and leg opening. The leg opening tells a 646 from a 517 or a 684, so get it measured flat at the hem. Inseam matters too, because a shortened bell loses its flare.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
Measurements first, then the details
Bells drag, so hems are frayed or worn through at the back, and the tight thighs wear at the crotch. A cut-down hem loses the flare, so pick a pair with its original length.
Buying guide
For an orange tab 646 to wear, we'd take the 70s 34x34 titled made in USA with a Talon 42 zip, at $148 delivered. There are at least 222 for sale, nearly all from US sellers, and denim pairs mostly ask $120–190 delivered, while corduroy 646s in beige, black, blue and brown start around $52. Ask for the leg opening measured flat and the thigh as well as the waist and inseam, because sellers mix up the 646 with the 517 and the wider 684, and a shortened hem loses the bell. Check that the lot number on the patch or inside tag reads 646, and look at the care tags on any orange tab pair, since Levi's revived the orange tab in 2017. eBay's search cards don't show seller feedback for these, so check it on the item page. The $548 deadstock pair asks more than three times the band median, so make the seller prove it with photos of the paper tags and unwashed indigo.
$51.89est. delivered
The cheapest 646 here, a sky blue corduroy pair titled 1970s with a white label, 32x30. Levi's made the 646 in corduroy and colors too, so it's the cheap way into the cut, and the thigh and leg opening are the numbers to check.
VTG LEVIS 1970s Corduroy Sky Blue Bell Bottom White Label 646 Pants Flared 32x30
$148.27est. delivered
Titled 70s orange tab, made in USA, with a Talon 42 zip, under the band median. It's 34x34 on the tag, so ask for the leg opening flat and the inseam on the original hem.
Vintage 70s Levi's 646 Orange Tab Bell Bottom Flare Jeans 34x34 USA Talon 42
$183.94est. delivered
The seller gives the fit as 32x30, and the title claims an orange tab, made in USA and a Talon zip. Ask for the leg opening to confirm it's a 646 bell and not a 517.
Vintage Levi's 646 Jeans Mens Fits 32x30 Orange Tab Flared Made in USA Talon Zip
$169.99delivered
Titled 1977 with a Talon 42 zip and an 01 stamp on the button, the low number dealers find on 1970s flares, and it ships free. Ask for the inside tag to check the 646 lot and the inseam on the original hem.
VTG 1977 Levis 646 Orange Tab Bell Bottom Jeans Talon 42 Zip USA Stamp 01 31x29
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used$51.89est. delivered
$39.89 + $12.00 shipping
Buy It Now$39.89
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
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Good buy
Sky blue corduroy, titled 1970s, white label, 32x30.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$148.27est. delivered
$140.00 + $8.27 shipping
Buy It Now$140.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled 70s orange tab, made in USA, Talon 42. 34x34.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$183.94est. delivered
$174.99 + $8.95 shipping
Buy It Now$174.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
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Good buy
Orange tab, made in USA, Talon zip, fits 32x30.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$169.99delivered
$169.99 · free shipping
Buy It Now$169.99
Good buy
Titled 1977, Talon 42, button stamp 01, 31x29. Ships free.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$157.08est. delivered
$149.99 + $7.09 shipping
Buy It Now$149.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Black corduroy, titled 70s, 34x32.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$159.99est. delivered
$149.99 + $10.00 shipping
Buy It Now$149.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
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Our take
Titled 1970s 646-0217, orange tab, dark wash, 36x30.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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Used$165.84est. delivered
$149.99 + $15.85 shipping
Buy It Now$149.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
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Our take
Titled 70's orange tab, faded, 32x29. One of several similar listings from one seller.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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New old stock$547.77est. delivered
$540.00 + $7.77 shipping
Buy It Now$540.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
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Priced high
Titled deadstock 70s, 34x31. Ask for the paper tags. Over three times the band median.
Seller: Seller on eBay
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