Lee · 101B · Originals from the 1920s to the 1940s; reissued since the late 1990s
Lee 101B Button Fly
The B in 101B stands for button fly. Lee's 101 Cowboy pants started out with buttons in 1924, and when Lee added a zip fly in the late 1920s, the zip version became the 101-Z. The button-fly Cowboy pant carried on beside it into the 1940s. A wartime pair documented by Denim Archives has iron buttons, a black-painted laurel top button and no rivet on the coin pocket. Lee kept the letter for its reissues, and today almost every listing titled 101B is one. Lee's premium and Japanese lines have copied the button-fly Cowboy and Riders jeans for decades, with crotch rivets, cinch backs and left-hand-twill selvedge. It isn't a bootcut. Buy a reissue for a raw selvedge jean with the 1930s Lee look, and keep an eye out for the rare original with a Lee Cowboy donut button.
Lee Archives 101B Cowboy reissueLee Japan 101BLee Japan 1946 Riders 101B reissue
Spec at a glance
Brand
Lee
Model
101B
Family
Cowboy and Riders jeans
Garment
Jeans
Cut
Straight leg
Years made
Originals from the 1920s to the 1940s; reissued since the late 1990s
Decade
1940s
Closure
Button fly
Good for
Selvedge and raw denim
Typical eBay ask (Oct 11, 2026)
$160–$390
Date it from the photos
Reading a 101B listing
Top button
Read the stamp on the top button. Lee Cowboy on a donut button belongs to the Cowboy era up to the mid-1940s, Lee Riders to later, and a black-painted laurel button to the war years.
Fly buttons
Look at the smaller fly buttons. Plain, unmarked donut buttons are normal on originals into the 1950s.
Crotch rivet
Check for a rivet where the fly meets the crotch. Lee used one on Cowboy and early Riders jeans and switched to a bar tack after the late 1940s.
Coin pocket
Look at the coin pocket corners. A wartime pair has no rivets there, like a wartime Levi's.
Label
Check the care label and country of manufacture. Made in Japan or a modern care label means a Lee Japan, Lee Archives or Lee 101 reissue.
Reissues and repros
Most listings titled 101B are reissues from Lee 101, Lee Archives or Lee Japan, in left-hand-twill selvedge with cinch backs, crotch rivets and cowboy-style leather patches. They're good jeans, but judge them as reissues. Expect Made in Japan or a modern care label inside.
If you’ll wear it
A reissue gets you a raw selvedge jean with the 1930s Lee look and a fit you can choose. Check the measurements and whether it's been soaked.
If you’ll collect it
An original button-fly Lee Cowboy pant with its Lee Cowboy donut button and leather patch is the rare find. Wartime pairs with laurel buttons are scarcer still.
Size it by measurement
Measure, don't trust the tag. Originals are a wide straight leg that tapers a little to the hem, and many have been re-hemmed. Some reissues use unsanforized denim (Lee Japan's 1946 Riders 101B does), so a raw pair will shrink when it's first soaked. Ask for the waist flat and doubled, inseam, front rise and leg opening, and whether the pair is raw or washed.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
What to check
Measurements first, then the details
Raw reissues wear like any raw jean, so check the crotch, knees and back-pocket edges. Originals usually come with repairs, re-hemmed legs or a missing leather patch, which are fine if you know about them.
01Waist: Ask for the waist measured flat across the top of the waistband, then double it. On a raw reissue, ask whether it's been soaked.
02Inseam: Ask for the inseam from the crotch seam to the hem. Raw reissues will lose length when first washed.
03Rise: Ask for the front rise from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. Compare it with a pair you already wear.
04Leg opening: Ask for the leg opening measured flat at the hem. Originals taper only a little from a wide thigh.
05Fly: Check the photos show a button fly. A zipper means it's a 101-Z, whatever the title says.
06Label: Look at the care label and country of manufacture in the photos. Made in Japan means a reissue, and an original has no care label.
07Condition: Ask for photos of the crotch, knees and pocket edges. Darns are fine, open holes need a repair.
Buying guide
Which one to buy
§ Oct 11, 2026
Most listings titled 101B are Lee's own reissues, and that's what we'd buy here, the Made in Japan 40s Reprint titled W31 L33, at $189 delivered. There are at least 72 for sale, most shipping from Japan, and the reissues from Lee Japan, Lee Archives, American Riders and the 1946 and 1954 Redux lines mostly ask $160–390 delivered. A handful of Japanese dealers title pairs as 1950s or 60s originals at $1,300–2,900, but originals run from the 1920s to the 1940s, so treat those titles as claims. On any pair sold as original, ask for the top button stamp (Lee Cowboy on a donut button is the Cowboy era), a crotch rivet, and the inside, where a care label or Made in Japan means a reissue. Go by the waist measured flat and doubled, the inseam, rise and leg opening, and ask whether a raw pair has been soaked, since some reissues use unsanforized denim. eBay's search cards don't show seller feedback for these, so check it on the item page.
Listed now
72
For parts
0
Typical ask
$160–$390
Full range
$35–$2,849
★Cheapest
$47.70est. delivered
The lowest delivered pair, titled 90s Lee Riders 101 B, made in USA and Sanforized, with an actual 30x28. Check the photos for a button fly, because a zipper makes it a 101-Z whatever the title says.
Vintage 90s Lee Riders 101 B Union USA Made Sanforized Denim Jeans ACTUAL 30x28
Titled a 90s Made in Japan 40s Reprint of the WW2 type, so it's a reissue and says so, in W31 L33 at the low end of the band. Ask whether it's been soaked, since a raw reissue loses length in the first wash.
90s Lee Riders 101B. "40s Reprint. WW2 type." W31 L33. Made in Japan. arcuate.
A Lee American Riders 101B, lot LM5010, made in Japan in organic cotton, from a US seller under the band. It's a modern reissue with the 101B look, so buy it on the waist measured flat and the inseam.
Lee American Riders 101B LM5010 Jeans 32 Made in Japan Organic Cotton Button Fly
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
For sale on eBay
8 of 72 listed
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used
★Cheapest
Vintage 90s Lee Riders 101 B Union USA Made Sanforized Denim Jeans ACTUAL 30x28
$47.70est. delivered
$35.00 + $12.70 shipping
Buy It Now$35.00
Offers accepted+
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Good buy
Titled 90s Riders 101 B, made in USA, actual 30x28. Check for a button fly.