Lee · 101-Z · Late 1920s to the early 1970s; reissued today
Lee says it made the first zip-fly jeans, and the 101-Z is that jean. Sources put the zipper at 1926 or 1927, and it helped sell Lee to town buyers who found a stiff button fly a chore. After the war the 101-Z became the flagship of the Riders line, and James Dean wore one in Rebel Without a Cause in 1955. The details change by decade. A late-1940s pair still has a crotch rivet and a red waistband tag. A 1950s pair has a Gripper zipper, a red or black center tag, X bar tacks at the back pockets and selvedge on one edge of the outseam. By the early 1970s the tag sits off to one side, the zipper is often a Talon and the selvedge is gone. The leg is a fairly wide straight. Hunt a 1950s or 60s pair for the history, or an early-70s one to wear.
Date it from the photos
Reissues and repros
Lee's premium Lee 101 line has reissued the 101-Z for years, including a 1952 model in Japanese left-hand-twill selvedge, and Lee Japan's The Archives series copies 1948, 1954 and 1962 versions down to the tags. Made in Japan or a modern care label means a reissue. Lee's 200 looks similar but lacks the half-lined back pockets of the 101-Z.
If you’ll wear it
An early-70s side-tag pair is the easiest 101-Z to wear. It's still US-made with a Talon zipper and left-hand-twill fades.
If you’ll collect it
The 1950s pairs with a black center tag, Gripper zipper and selvedge outseam are the ones collectors chase. Deadstock with the flasher still on is rarer.
Measure, don't trust the tag. The 101-Z was Sanforized, so it shouldn't shrink much more, but plenty have been hemmed. 1950s pairs are a fairly wide straight leg, and Denim Archives found an early-70s 101-Z roomier than a Big E 501 from the same years. Ask for the waist flat and doubled, inseam, front rise, thigh and leg opening.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
Measurements first, then the details
Check for blown crotches, worn knees and frayed back-pocket edges. A replaced zipper is common and fine on a wearer, but it costs a collector pair its original Gripper or Talon.
Buying guide
This isn't much of a market. We found six vintage 101-Zs among about 25 listings, and the rest were Lee 101 and Archives reissues. If we were buying, we'd look at the USA-made size 44 titled with a Talon zipper at $932 with free shipping from Japan, since a Talon fits an early-70s pair. Read the waistband tag first. A red or black center tag means the late 1940s or early 50s, a black tag off to one side means the 1960s or early 70s, and Made in Japan or a modern care label means a reissue. Measure rather than trusting the tag, since plenty have been hemmed, and skip the $3,347 pair titled 1950s with a side black tag, since a side tag points to the 60s.
$94.95est. delivered
The lowest ask at $95 delivered, a 101Z titled selvedge, light wash and altered, tagged 28x36. Altered means it's been resized, so get the real waist and inseam before you buy.
Vintage Lee 101Z Selvedge Jeans Mens 28x36 Blue Denim Light Wash Altered
$932.00delivered
Titled Made in USA with a Talon zipper, which fits an early-70s 101-Z, at $932 with free shipping from Japan. Size 44 is the tag, so ask for the waist measured flat and the inseam.
Lee 101Z Vintage Indigo Denim Pants Size 44 TALON Zipper Made in USA Used 2609TK
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used$94.95est. delivered
$85.00 + $9.95 shipping
Buy It Now$85.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled selvedge, altered. Tagged 28x36.
Seller: whiskersandfades
99.9% positive
Used$932.00delivered
$932.00 · free shipping
Buy It Now$932.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled Talon zipper, Made in USA, size 44. Free shipping from Japan.
Seller: transporter_in-ex_japan
100% positive
Used$144.79est. delivered
$132.30 + $12.49 shipping
Buy It Now$132.30
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled 70s and made in Poland. The vintage 101-Z is US-made.
Seller: johnlarson8356
99.8% positive
Used$690.00est. delivered
$540.00 + $150.00 shipping
Buy It Now$540.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled 60s 70s, no selvedge, oil stained. $150 shipping from Japan.
Seller: metra7552
100% positive
Used$1,732.05est. delivered
$1,709.05 + $23.00 shipping
Buy It Now$1,709.05
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Priced high
Titled 1960s original, W29. About twice the median ask.
Seller: kodache-0
100% positive
Used$3,347.05est. delivered
$3,324.05 + $23.00 shipping
Buy It Now$3,324.05
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Priced high
Titled 1950s with a side black tag, but a side tag points to the 60s. Four times the median.
Seller: kodache-0
100% positive
Prices change daily. The live eBay search shows everything listed now, including anything new since Oct 11, 2026.
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