Levi's · 501-0000 · USA-made into the early 2000s; the 0000 code is still in use
The rigid 501 is the original idea. You buy it stiff and dark, then soak or wash it until it shrinks to your shape,. On the patch and care label, 0000 after the lot number marks that rigid Shrink-to-Fit version. In the late 1960s the patch called it 501 0117 instead. Sellers list deadstock USA-made 0000 pairs from the 1990s into the early 2000s, and Levi's still makes the 00501-0000 abroad today. Don't expect selvedge on a 1990s pair. Cone moved to wide looms around 1984, so these have an overlocked outseam. What you get is American sewing and rigid denim that fades with real contrast. Buy deadstock to shrink and break in yourself, or buy a worn pair with fades you like. Either way, go by measurements, because shrink-to-fit tag sizes are all over the place.
Date it from the photos
Reissues and repros
Levi's still sells the rigid 00501-0000 new, made abroad, so a USA-made pair is identified by its care label and button. Levi's Vintage Clothing and Japanese brands make rigid selvedge 501-style jeans, but they're other products with their own labels.
If you’ll wear it
Buy deadstock if you want to shrink and fade them yourself. A worn pair costs less and someone else did the shrinking.
If you’ll collect it
Deadstock USA pairs with the paper patch, hang tags and a 555 button draw the most interest.
Shrink-to-Fit means the tag is the size before the first wash. Levi's says to add 1–3 inches to the waist and 3–4 to the inseam if you'll machine wash and dry, and Heddels says many pairs shrink 6–8% on the first wash against the roughly 10% Levi's quotes. A deadstock pair will shrink like that, while a worn pair has already done it, and sellers tag them by either size. Go only by the waist measured flat and doubled, the inseam and the rise.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
Measurements first, then the details
Rigid denim breaks at the crotch, knees and back pocket corners once it's worn in, and a pair that was never soaked can twist at the leg after the first wash. Deadstock pairs can have fold lines, faded hang tags and storage marks, which are fine.
Buying guide
For a worn-in USA Shrink-to-Fit, we'd take the 90s 501 0000 a seller measures at 33x29 (tagged 38x32), at $75 delivered. There are at least 158 for sale, almost all from US sellers, and most ask $80–140 delivered. None of these is titled deadstock, so expect pairs someone else has already shrunk, and their tag sizes can run several inches over the real fit. Buy on the waist measured flat and doubled, the inseam and the rise, which plenty of titles here give, and ask for both sides of the care label to see 501 0000, Made in USA and a date code. Skip the $431 80s honeycomb pair, over four times the band median, and check the lot number on anything titled shrink-to-fit, since one here reads 0118.
$48.99delivered
The lowest ask here, and the seller gives both sizes, tagged 48x32 and measuring 45x30. It's a big pair, so it only suits you if those numbers match a pair you own.
Levi’s 501 Vintage Jeans Tag Size 48x32 - Measures 45x30 USA 501-0000
$74.98est. delivered
Titled 90s 501 0000 and made in USA, with the actual 33x29 next to the 38x32 tag, at $75 delivered, under the band. Check the care label photo for the date code.
Vtg 90s Levi’s 501xx 38x32 Actual 33x29 Button Fly Made In USA 501 0000 Jeans
$87.17est. delivered
Titled 80s 501-0000, measured at 36x30 against a 36x34 tag. Losing 4 inches of inseam is what Levi's says to expect from a washed Shrink-to-Fit pair, so the numbers hang together.
Vintage 80s Levi's 501-0000 Jeans Made in USA Shrink to Fit 36x34 Actual 36x30
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used$48.99delivered
$48.99 · free shipping
Buy It Now$48.99
Good buy
Tag 48x32, measures 45x30. Cheapest here.
Seller: rockinthreadsrecords
100% positive
Used$74.98est. delivered
$64.99 + $9.99 shipping
Buy It Now$64.99
Good buy
Titled 90s 501 0000, actual 33x29 (tag 38x32).
Seller: rewind_ak
99.9% positive
Used$87.17est. delivered
$79.00 + $8.17 shipping
Buy It Now$79.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled 80s 501-0000, actual 36x30 (tag 36x34).
Seller: ryho_7660
100% positive
Used$97.02est. delivered
$89.50 + $7.52 shipping
Buy It Now$89.50
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled 1993, fits 31x27, frayed hem. Check how worn the hem is.
Seller: ylben70
100% positive
Used$107.90est. delivered
$99.95 + $7.95 shipping
Buy It Now$99.95
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled '99 raw STF, 33x31, distressed. Ask whether it's been washed.
Seller: bigislandtreasurehunter
99.9% positive
Used$110.00delivered
$110.00 · free shipping
Buy It Now$110.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled 90's 501-0000, faded and distressed, 40x33. Ships free.
Seller: igotulookin
100% positive
Used$141.59est. delivered
$130.00 + $11.59 shipping
Buy It Now$130.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Check the seller
Titled shrink-to-fit, but the code reads 26501-0118, not 0000. Ask for the care label.
Seller: rnd_6256
100% positive
Used$430.75est. delivered
$420.76 + $9.99 shipping
Buy It Now$420.76
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Priced high
Titled 80s with honeycombs, fit 32x28. Over four times the band median.
Seller: flipclothingco
99.8% positive
Prices change daily. The live eBay search shows everything listed now, including anything new since Oct 11, 2026.
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Levi's · Straight leg
501-0115USA-made pairs from the 1980s and 1990s; the 0115 code is still sold
$50–$120 typical ask
Levi's · Straight leg
501Late 1980s to 2003
$70–$130 typical ask
Levi's · Straight leg
5011971 to the mid-1980s
$300–$525 typical ask