Levi Strauss & Co. dates the jacket collectors call the Type I to 1905–1953, though the Lot 506 name goes back to the 1890s. It has one chest pocket, two pleats down the front, rivets at the pocket and cuffs, and a cinch strap across the lower back, with a blanket-lined version too. The red tab went onto Levi's jackets in 1937. During World War II the pocket flap came off and hollow donut buttons saved metal, and the flap came back after the war. The Type I, II and III names aren't Levi's own. Japanese collectors started classifying the jackets that way in the 1980s, as the market for them took off. Originals rarely surface in wearable shape, and reissues far outnumber them on eBay. A postwar flapped jacket is the one most collectors hunt, and a good reissue is the one to wear.
World War II issue with no pocket flap and donut buttonsBlanket-lined version
Spec at a glance
Brand
Levi's
Model
506XX
Family
Levi's denim jackets
Garment
Jacket
Cut
Jackets and coats
Years made
about 1905–1953
Decade
1940s
Closure
Button front
Made in
USA
Good for
Collector pieces
Nicknames
Type I, 1st
Typical eBay ask (Oct 11, 2026)
$5,350–$14,275
Date it from the photos
Reading a 506XX listing
Back cinch
Every Type I has a cinch strap at the lower back. Heddels ties silver buckles to the early decades and bronze sliders to the 1940s, which carried on until the Type II replaced the cinch in 1953.
Pocket flap
The single chest pocket has a flap on prewar and postwar jackets. No flap, together with donut buttons, points to the World War II issue, though the earliest jackets had no flap either.
Tab
Levi's started sewing the red tab onto jackets on July 1, 1937. LEVI'S on one side only fits up to about 1952, and lettering on both sides came in around 1953, at the very end of the run.
Buttons
Hollow donut buttons, some with a laurel leaf, saved metal during the war. Postwar jackets have the standard Levi's button.
Care label
No original Type I has a care label. One sewn inside means a reproduction or a fake.
Reissues and repros
Levi's Vintage Clothing has reissued the 1936 Type I, and Japanese makers including Full Count, Sugar Cane, Buzz Rickson's, The Flat Head, TCB, Denime and Momotaro make close copies. Levi's Japan's 1990s 71506XX reissue has a Big E tab, so look for a MADE IN JAPAN tag and a button stamp starting with J, such as J22. A care label or a three-digit button stamp such as 555 means a later reissue.
If you’ll wear it
Wear a reissue. An LVC or Japanese Type I copies the cut and details closely, and you won't be risking an 80-year-old jacket.
If you’ll collect it
A postwar jacket with its flap, a bronze cinch slider and a one-sided tab is the classic find. Heddels notes wartime jackets can rank above older ones because they're scarcer.
Size it by measurement
Type Is have a boxy fit and are tagged by chest size, so the tag tells you little about how one wears now. Ask for pit to pit, back length from the collar seam to the hem, and sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the cuff, and compare them with a jacket you own. They predate the pre-shrunk denim Levi's brought in during the 1960s, so trust the measurements over the tag.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
What to check
Measurements first, then the details
Expect frayed cuffs and collar, worn buttonholes and a cinch buckle that's been replaced or cut off. Old darning and patches are part of a Type I's story, but replaced buttons or buckles should be stated in the listing.
01Pit to pit: Ask for the chest measured flat from armpit seam to armpit seam. Double it and compare with a jacket that fits you.
02Length: Ask for the back length from the collar seam to the hem. The boxy cut means length and chest both decide the fit.
03Sleeve: Ask for the sleeve from the shoulder seam to the cuff. Check both cuffs in the photos for fraying or recut edges.
04Tab: Zoom in on the red tab at the pocket. LEVI'S on one side only fits about 1937–1952.
05Cinch: Ask for a close photo of the back cinch and buckle. The buckle should suit the era the seller claims.
06Flap and buttons: Check the chest pocket and buttons in the photos. No flap with donut buttons is the wartime jacket.
07Inside: Ask for photos of the inside and the button backs. A care label, MADE IN JAPAN tag, or a J or 555 stamp means a reissue.
08Condition: Ask for close photos of the collar, cuffs, buttonholes and elbows. Old darning is fine, open holes along seams need repair.
Buying guide
Which one to buy
§ Oct 11, 2026
If we were buying a Type I, we'd start with the $3,873 jacket a Japanese dealer titles 506XX 1st and original, then ask for the tab, cinch and inside before paying. We found only eight for sale (the estimate is at least 16), most asking $5,350–14,275 delivered, and one Japanese dealer holds three of them at $9,000–25,000. Every cheaper listing we found was a 1990s Levi's Japan or LVC reissue, so look inside first. A care label, a MADE IN JAPAN tag or a J or 555 button stamp means a reissue, and LEVI'S on one side of the tab fits about 1937 to 1952. They're tagged by chest size, so ask for pit to pit, back length and sleeve and compare them with a jacket you own. Skip the Belgian listing from a zero-feedback seller and the $25,000 one, which asks over twice the median.
Listed now
16
For parts
0
Typical ask
$5,350–$14,275
Full range
$2,500–$25,000
★Cheapest
$2,509.41est. delivered
The lowest ask on a Type I here at $2,509 delivered, titled 506XX with the cinch, selvedge and Big E, and distressed. That's under half the usual ask, so check for a care label and the button backs for a J or 555 stamp before you offer.
Vtg Levi’s 506XX Type 1 Denim Jacket Big E Cinch Selvedge Distressed
Titled 506XX 1st and original, at $3,873 delivered, well under the band. $775 of that is shipping from Japan, and the title gives no era or size, so ask for the tab, the cinch and pit to pit.
Titled WWII S506XX, 1942 to 1946, with a buckle back, from a US seller at $13,002 delivered, inside the band. Wartime jackets can rank above older ones because they're scarcer, so confirm the flapless pocket and donut buttons in the photos.
Authentic WWII Levi's S506XX Type I Denim Jacket (1942–1946) – Big E, Buckle Bk
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
For sale on eBay
8 of 16 listed
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used
★Cheapest
Vtg Levi’s 506XX Type 1 Denim Jacket Big E Cinch Selvedge Distressed
$2,509.41est. delivered
$2,500.00 + $9.41 shipping
Buy It Now$2,500.00
Offers accepted+
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Good buy
Titled Big E, cinch, selvedge, distressed. Far under the band, so check for reissue tells.