Lee · 100-J · Late 1950s into the 1960s
The Westerner was Lee dressing up. At the end of the 1950s, when many schools still banned blue jeans, Lee cut its Rider jacket and 101-Z jean in a smooth cotton satin, often white or off-white, and sold them as the Westerner, the 100-J jacket and 100-Z pants. They caught on with high school and college students, Ivy Leaguers included, and in 1961 Lee gave the pants center creases and narrower legs. The jacket keeps the Rider's slanted yoke, slanted chest pockets and zigzag front. Clark Gable wore one in The Misfits, Sidney Poitier in Lilies of the Field and Elvis in Kissin' Cousins. It's a satin jacket first, with matching pants, and it was never a slim denim jean. Look for a jacket with a plain label on the chest-pocket flap, or one with only the ® mark, which puts it in the 1960s.
Date it from the photos
Reissues and repros
Lee Japan's The Archives series has reissued the 100-J and 100-Z from 1962 originals, down to the label and the flasher, and those say Made in Japan. Kapital sells a denim jacket it calls the Westerner, which is a copy of Lee's denim 101-J.
If you’ll wear it
A 1960s jacket in clean off-white satin is the one to wear. Measure it, because it's cut short and close.
If you’ll collect it
Collectors look for an early plain chest label, matching 100-J and 100-Z pieces, and paper flashers on deadstock.
Measure it. The 100-J is the short, fitted Rider jacket cut in different cloth, so get pit to pit, back length and sleeve. For 100-Z pants ask for the waist flat and doubled, inseam, front rise and leg opening, and expect a slimmer leg on pairs from 1961 on.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
Measurements first, then the details
White and off-white satin shows every stain, and old ones often carry added patches or pin holes. Small marks are fine to wear; ask about yellowing at the collar and cuffs.
Buying guide
For a Westerner to wear, we'd take the off-white 100-J titled 36 Regular with no M.R. tag at $386 delivered, the lowest jacket ask here. Only four jackets and one pair of 100-Z pants turned up, the jackets asking $386–505 delivered, so the band isn't much of a market read. A plain or ® chest-pocket label without M.R. fits the late 1950s and 60s, and the cloth should be smooth cotton satin, because the same cut in blue denim is a Rider jacket. It's cut short and close, so get pit to pit, back length and sleeve before you buy, and check seller feedback on the item page, since eBay's search cards don't show it here.
$135.99est. delivered
The only 100-Z Westerner pants here, titled 60s, green cotton, Talon zipper and Union Made, 36x29, at $136 delivered. The catalog has Lee using Gripper zippers on its jeans of the period, so ask for a close-up of the zipper and the label.
True Vtg 60s Lee Westerner Pants Mens 36x29 Cotton Talon Zipper Green USA Union
$386.20est. delivered
Titled 60s 100-J in cotton sateen, 36 Regular, USA made, with no M.R. on the tag, which fits the 1960s label rule. It's the lowest jacket ask, so ask for pit to pit and daylight photos of the collar and cuffs.
Vtg 60s Lee Westerner 100-J Cotton Sateen Jacket 36 Regular No MR Tag USA Made
$415.00est. delivered
A 60s 100-J titled size 40, Buy It Now at $415 delivered from a US seller. Check the chest-pocket label and ask for pit to pit, since the cut runs short.
Vintage 60s Lee Westerner 100 - J Button Up Jacket Men's Western Size 40 USA
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used$135.99est. delivered
$126.00 + $9.99 shipping
Buy It Now$126.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled 60s Westerner pants, green cotton, Talon zipper, 36x29.
Seller: Seller on eBay
Check feedback on the listing
Used$386.20est. delivered
$369.00 + $17.20 shipping
Buy It Now$369.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Good buy
Titled 60s 100-J sateen, 36 Regular, no M.R. tag. The lowest jacket ask.
Seller: Seller on eBay
Check feedback on the listing
Used$415.00est. delivered
$400.00 + $15.00 shipping
Buy It Now$400.00
Good buy
Titled 60s 100-J, size 40, US seller. Buy It Now.
Seller: Seller on eBay
Check feedback on the listing
Used$499.00est. delivered
$459.00 + $40.00 shipping
Buy It Now$459.00
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Our take
Titled 60s, Sanforized, Union Made sateen. $40 shipping from Malaysia.
Seller: Seller on eBay
Check feedback on the listing
Used$504.98est. delivered
$489.99 + $14.99 shipping
Buy It Now$489.99
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.
Want it for sure? Use Buy It Now.
Check the seller
Titled 100-J but cotton denim. In blue denim this cut is a Rider jacket, so check the cloth.
Seller: Seller on eBay
Check feedback on the listing
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