Before Riders, Lee was a workwear company, and Dungarees was the name it gave its work pants. The 191-Z is the zip-fly version, sold from about 1950 into the 1970s. It's cut in Jelt Denim, a tightly woven 11½ oz cloth Lee developed in 1925 to be about as strong as 13 oz denim while weighing less. It has a ruler pocket on the right leg, lined back pockets that hold up to tools and a triple-stitched back yoke. Its button-fly sibling was the 11-W Waist Band Overalls, which came out of Lee's 1946 purchase of the Boss of the Road brand. The Dungarees name came back in the late 1990s for a youth jeans line advertised with Buddy Lee, so expect plenty of those in a search. Hunt a 191-Z for a Lee work jean with history, and read the tag before you trust a seller's decade.
11-W Waist Band Overalls (button fly, 1949)Late-1990s Lee Dungarees jeans line
Spec at a glance
Brand
Lee
Model
191-Z
Family
Dungarees workwear
Garment
Jeans
Cut
Straight leg
Years made
About 1950 into the 1970s
Decade
1950s
Closure
Zip fly
Made in
USA
Fabric
Jelt Denim, about 11½ oz
Good for
Workwear
Typical eBay ask (Oct 11, 2026)
$25–$45
Date it from the photos
Reading a 191-Z listing
Woven label
Look for the black label with red and gold lettering. On 1940s and 50s pieces it names Jelt Denim and says Sanforized.
Zipper
Check the zipper. A 1950s 191-Z has a Gripper zipper that locks with a small tooth behind the slider.
Ruler pocket
Look for a tall pocket on the right leg. The 191-Z and the 11-W both have one, and the 11-W has no hammer loop.
Fly
A button fly with a long-L Lee top button is an 11-W. A zip fly is a 191-Z.
Waistband patch
Look for a paper patch on the waistband with the lot and size. It flakes off with wear, so one that's still there means little use.
Reissues and repros
Lee Japan's The Archives series reissues the 1950 191-Z and the 1949 11-W, and its current Lee Dungarees line includes painter pants and overalls. Those say Made in Japan. Late-1990s Lee Dungarees jeans carry modern care labels.
If you’ll wear it
A 191-Z is a lighter work jean with a ruler pocket and a zip fly. It's a good everyday pair if the measurements suit you.
If you’ll collect it
Look for 1950s pairs with the black, red and gold Jelt Denim label, a Gripper zipper and the paper waistband patch.
Size it by measurement
Measure first. Jelt Denim was Sanforized, so it shouldn't shrink much more, but work pants were often hemmed and altered. Ask for the waist flat and doubled, inseam, front rise, thigh and leg opening, and compare them with work pants you own.
New to measuring old denim? Our measuring guide shows where to put the tape.
What to check
Measurements first, then the details
Work pants saw hard use, so expect paint, frayed pocket edges and knee wear. A ruler pocket torn at the top or a replaced zipper is easy to live with on a wearer.
01Waist: Ask for the waist measured flat across the top of the waistband, then double it. Don't expect it to match the tag.
02Inseam: Ask for the inseam from the crotch seam to the hem. Check in the photos whether the hem has been redone.
03Rise: Ask for the front rise from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. Compare it with work pants you wear.
04Thigh: Ask for the thigh measured flat just below the crotch. That tells you more about the fit than the tag size.
05Label: Zoom in on the label in the photos. Jelt Denim on a black, red and gold label means an old pair, and a care label means late.
06Ruler pocket: Check the right leg for the tall ruler pocket. It should be there and intact.
07Condition: Ask for photos of the knees, seat and pocket edges. Paint and small repairs are fine, open holes need fixing.
Buying guide
Which one to buy
§ Oct 11, 2026
This page is almost all the late-1990s and Y2K Lee Dungarees jeans line, the youth jeans Lee advertised with Buddy Lee, not the 1950s 191-Z work jean, and we found no 191-Z in our sample. For a pair to wear, we'd take the acid wash straight leg titled made in USA, 34x36, at $38 delivered. There are at least 51 for sale, all from US sellers in our sample, and most ask $25–45 delivered. Late-90s pairs carry modern care labels, while a 191-Z would show the black, red and gold Jelt Denim label, a zip fly and a ruler pocket on the right leg. None of these titles gives measurements, so ask for the waist flat and doubled, the rise, inseam and thigh. eBay's search cards don't show seller feedback for these, so check it on the item page, and skip the $160 70s flares, more than four times the band median.
Listed now
51
For parts
0
Typical ask
$25–$45
Full range
$15–$150
★Cheapest
$24.89est. delivered
The lowest delivered pair here, a loose straight leg 30x32. Like most of this page it's the later Lee Dungarees jeans line, so ask for the care label to see where and when it was made.
Vintage Lee Dungarees Jeans Men 30x32 Loose Straight Leg Blue Denim Workwear
Titled made in USA, straight leg and acid wash, 34x36, inside the band. The title gives only the tag size, so ask for the waist measured flat and the inseam.
Vintage Lee Dungaree Men’s Jeans Acid Wash Blue Made in USA 34x36 Straight Leg
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Snapshot
For sale on eBay
8 of 51 listed
Checked . Some may have sold.
Delivered prices include shipping as eBay quoted it to a US address on Oct 11, 2026. Many sellers charge by distance, so your total may differ. eBay shows yours before you pay.
Used
★Cheapest
Vintage Lee Dungarees Jeans Men 30x32 Loose Straight Leg Blue Denim Workwear
$24.89est. delivered
$17.90 + $6.99 shipping
Buy It Now$17.90
Offers accepted+
This seller takes offers, and many sellers accept less than the asking price.
Fine if you might miss it? Send an offer first. Someone else can still buy it while you wait for a reply.